I was climbing, poorly, a route called Like a Turtle (.11b and not the Madonna song). The route is nothing exceptional and makes a decent warm-up. Let me caveat that, it has a run-out going to the last bolt.
It’s not difficult climbing but spacious. Am I sounding repetitive? I just want you to understand that I was strapping on my biggest courage package to pull these moves through perceived danger.
Grab the crimp, steady self with under-cling, move feet up, and repeat but vary the holds. Now I’m to a point that my feet are at least a body length above the last bolt with a final move. A final gentle slap to a clipping jug; a clipping jug that slowly disintegrates in my hand while raining sandstone drops on my belayer.
So I’m run-out, not confident and ready to poop diamonds as my only salvation collapses into dust in my hand.
What to do? What to do?
Cry. Curse. Scream. Deal with it.
Some quick movements, a lightning clip and phew. Well I’ll through those shorts away, but the disaster was averted.